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Black and white image of map, drawn in the style of a bird's eye view. Part of the city can be seen at the bottom, surrounded by the city walls and ditch. 'Moor gate' and 'Bysshoppes gate' are shown and labelled. Beyond the walls at the top of the picture is 'Byshoppes gate Street', lined with houses and their gardens. Away from the houses are windmills, St Mary Spital, formal gardens and orchards. The 'Spital field', 'Moor field' and 'Fynnesburie field' are shown, each full of people doing a range of activities.

Modern photographic print taken of the copperplate map of the City of London around 1559, detail

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Photograph of a printed colour map of the area around London. The walled city is in the centre above the river, with the settlement of Southwark showing at the bottom. The city of Westminster is to the left, beside the bend in the river. Farms and villages surround the cities.

Londinum Feracissimi Angliae Regni Metropolis, map showing the cities of London and Westminster, published by G. Braun and F. Hogenberg, 1574, second edition

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3

City life: a growing problem


Tudor London was much smaller than London is today. It consisted mainly of the square mile of the City of London itself, surrounded on three sides by high walls. The Tower of London was to the east and the River Thames to the south.

Was London getting bigger?

London was beginning to overflow its boundaries. A mile to the west was the City of Westminster, linked to London by large houses along the Strand. London Bridge joined the City of London to Southwark on the south side of the Thames. East of the Tower of London were landing stages for ships, shipyards, watermills and a gibbet for hanging pirates.

What was life like inside the City walls?

Inside the crowded City walls, fine houses belonging to merchants often stood next to squalid houses belonging to the poor. The majority of Londoners lived in timber-framed houses, sometimes several storeys high, with lead or tiled roofs. A few people were homeless and resorted to begging, but this was punishable by whipping.

Many streets were narrow and muddy and could be crowded with pedestrians, animals, noblemen's coaches and heavy carts bringing goods to market. There were various markets in the City where you could buy fresh fruit and vegetables. At Smithfield market, held just outside the City walls, live animals were brought to be sold for their meat, skin and bones.

What did Londoners do for entertainment?

Southwark, on the south bank, was the main entertainment area. If you wanted to visit Southwark, you usually paid a waterman to row you across in his little boat. There were lots of taverns, or pubs, and bull and bear baiting rings. Here, hounds were set upon the larger animals and people would bet on the outcome. In Queen Elizabeth's reign, there were also theatres, including Shakespeare's Globe.

To the north of the City were open fields. You could stroll out here on Sundays or on summer evenings, and practise your archery or bowling. In winter the marshy areas would freeze over, and Londoners would make ice-skates out of animal bones. You had to be sure to be back inside the City before nightfall when the gates closed!

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Graphic: detail taken from the painting 'London from Southwark', c. 1630, Anglo-Dutch School

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